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Author Topic: Getting Phineas working.  (Read 4744 times)

bentruck

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Getting Phineas working.
« on: December 29, 2012, 12:48:40 PM »
Does anybody know what is wrong with Phineas? I just recently learned how to 3d print and I know NOTHING about servicing them. Is there anyone who knows what went wrong or could help? I've already been messaging chorca, and he can help out if he has time.
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PockyBum522

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Re: Getting Phineas working.
« Reply #1 on: December 29, 2012, 04:22:17 PM »
ThantiK would definitely be the one to talk to. He is a regular genius at threedee printing.


I believe he had it working properly, not 100% sure though, so if something's not working, probably best to just wait and find out from him. Derp is working really, really well right now. It needs no adjustment - if something's not printing right, again, ask Tony, because my God I saw it print better than it ever has before, the other day.

bentruck

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Re: Getting Phineas working.
« Reply #2 on: December 29, 2012, 06:14:00 PM »
Isn't Derp no longer at the lab? It wasn't there last time  I went  :'(
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PockyBum522

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Re: Getting Phineas working.
« Reply #3 on: December 29, 2012, 07:21:07 PM »
Tony did some amazing tune-ups/fixing. He's better than ever, play nice. :)

ThantiK

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Re: Getting Phineas working.
« Reply #4 on: December 30, 2012, 01:42:08 AM »
Derp is back at the lab, as well as the delta.  I took it home to toy around with PLA so I could tune it a little better for you guys.  Since you guys are printing mostly PLA, I've got some tips:


Make sure temps are 185 for the extruder, 65 for the bed.  Lay down a layer of blue tape (the 3M stuff laying around the lab) and print on that.  Don't drag the head across the tape if you can help it.  Instead of using your hands to adjust the screws for Z while a print is starting, just stop the print (pause button) and re-home Z and restart.  A bunch of people have been causing Z to get off-kilter.  If you can watch that first layer of filament, and adjust Z while it's printing so that the layer is nice and even, then you can use the method in which you keep the print going and just adjust the Z height instead of restarting.  The blue tape will cause the PLA prints to stick quite well, so be careful pulling them off of the bed.  If it gives you a problem, let it cool down more.  If you print something flat and wide, it's _going to be a pain_.


Phineas should be working, but you gotta run the file on the desktop specific to that printer.  Me and Pockybum are working on getting a different computer up there which doesn't constantly crash on 3D stuff, and we'll be changing the software to Repetier-Host soon, which is a little more powerful and a lot cooler.  Same settings apply for PLA in that machine.


Don't tape down the Z axis motors.  If they lift up, you're doing something majorly wrong, like having the Z adjusted _WAY_ out of whack, or ramming my extruder into the bed.  Don't do that.


I'd like to get together with you guys and go over the printer with you myself sometime so I can show you some things.  It sounds like you're doing good on your own, but I want to make sure any of the printers aren't damaged any more than they already have been in the last weeks.


Be aware that the printers have been disconnected/reconnected, so the port numbers have probably changed.  BreepBroop is now connected, so there are 3 different ports.  BreepBroop is off limits until explicitly told otherwise by Chris/Chorca.  So when you open the printer interfaces, jog the axis a little to make sure you're connected to the right one.


If you have any questions that need immediate answers, I've always got my cell phone on me and you can hit me up at thantik@gmail.com to get the quickest response.
« Last Edit: December 31, 2012, 05:58:39 PM by ThantiK »

bentruck

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Re: Getting Phineas working.
« Reply #5 on: December 30, 2012, 03:20:41 AM »
Thanks man. I tried a print today with the tape and it worked really well  ;D
And yeah I'd be willing to meet up whenever to discuss printer safety and such I don't want to go breaking anything.
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ThantiK

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Re: Getting Phineas working.
« Reply #6 on: January 10, 2013, 08:11:45 PM »
Also, phineas works again - changed the X axis belt and the reduced diameter of the new pulley gives it plenty of torque.  Also disassembled, un-dusted, and re-assembled the electronics.  This also helped.

Chorca

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Re: Getting Phineas working.
« Reply #7 on: January 10, 2013, 09:37:47 PM »
I'm trying to get a good design down for the boxes, once I do i'll print a few so we can get the electronics all boxed up.

On a side note, does anyone know where the tiny heatsinks went that were on that table? I need to put those on BreepBroop's stepper drivers. They were copper-colored, in a plastic blister pack, with four missing already.

ThantiK

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Re: Getting Phineas working.
« Reply #8 on: January 11, 2013, 02:13:36 AM »
Check in the yellow boxes/bins, specifically the one that _was_ on the table.  Someone had taken them out of the pack and threw them in that box.  The little adhesive pads were in there too.  If I head up to the lab tonight, I'll look around for them and try to find a way of bundling them together so you can find them easy.

Scott

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Re: Getting Phineas working.
« Reply #9 on: January 14, 2013, 02:54:20 PM »
Am at the lab now to 3d print. Which machine is usable? Derp is not here. Is the other one usable?

bentruck

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Re: Getting Phineas working.
« Reply #10 on: January 14, 2013, 04:09:15 PM »
I am fairly certain phineas is working now. on the far right of the station.
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ThantiK

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Re: Getting Phineas working.
« Reply #11 on: January 16, 2013, 05:27:20 AM »
I think mack had trouble with it tonight.  Either the ramps board or one of the pololu drivers is shorting out or something somewhere.  If you remove the RAMPS board, it connects in the software just fine, but bitches about thermistors.  If all the pololu drivers are out, it also works great.  So I think there's some problem with the drivers (dunno which one)


I'm going to disassemble the electronics and see if I can't figure out which driver is causing the problem.  For now though, phineas is out of commission.

Chorca

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Re: Getting Phineas working.
« Reply #12 on: January 16, 2013, 09:49:59 AM »
The new Dell that was put in place is now having issues. This is not the first time; when I tried using that for the big CNC I had much of the same problems. Mack found issues while trying to run memtest, and swapping sticks around did not resolve it, so it may be the CPU or motherboard. This sucks.

We really need a decent machine to run on there. Perhaps a few people can pitch in and we can just buy/build one to sit there and do the job? I'd like to try and invest in a mini-itx style computer that we can mount under the desk to keep it a bit cleaner there and give us some more space.

I'm already pitching in a server+cpu board for the FamiLAB server, and now maybe a case too, but I think with a minimal amount of expenditure, we can throw something small together that should last  longer than the hand-me-downs that we've been getting.

A quick build on newegg suggest $300 for a Core i3 3.1Ghz CPU, Intel Mini-ITX board, 8GB of DDR3 and a small Inwin Mini-ITX case with power supply. Overall that seems like a sound build, and we can use HDDs we already have a dozen of. Anyone want to volunteer to help with this? I'm going to make a newegg order soon so we can toss this together.
« Last Edit: January 16, 2013, 09:57:57 AM by Chorca »

f00bard

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Re: Getting Phineas working.
« Reply #13 on: January 16, 2013, 10:58:18 AM »
I grabbed some memory for that machine so we can see if that fixes the Dell.  Just will be a few days until it's here (I'm cheap and went for free shipping).  If anyone has some DDR2-667 feel free to bring it in to test.

Scott

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Re: Getting Phineas working.
« Reply #14 on: January 16, 2013, 01:45:23 PM »
I have 2-1gb sticks of PC2 6400  666 memory that the lab can have if it works.